Training
Why training before a climbing trip pays off, plus Marta Palou's free four-week plan for three levels: dead-hangs, bouldering, pull-ups, core and stretching.
Marta Palou Carol / May 15, 2026
Training for four weeks before a climbing trip means you arrive with conditioned fingers, power for hard moves and the endurance to climb day after day. You send more, recover faster and lower your injury risk. Below is the exact pre-trip plan that Rockbusters training lead Marta Palou gives our camp participants, in three levels.
Marta studied Sports Science, has been climbing for 13 years, has redpointed Florida 8c in Rodellar, onsighted Hidrofobia 8a and was Spanish lead vice-champion in 2017. She creates Rockbusters' preparation and personalised training programmes.
The three plans are in the tables further down the page.
Use all kinds of holds, all types of movement and different wall angles. Above all, work on your weaknesses.
Hold each stretch for 1 minute at low intensity.
Training plan
Week | Day 1 (climbing) | Active rest day | Day 2 (climbing) |
|---|---|---|---|
Week 1 | 3 dead-hangs 3 boulders of 4 moves + 1 boulder of 6 moves, 3 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min) Send 2 tries on each, using full crimp, half crimp and open hand 3 sets of pull-ups | Light run 20-30 min Planks Stretching | 3 dead-hangs 3 hard boulders of 4 moves + 1 of 6 moves, 3 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min) Send 1 try on each, with dynamic and static moves 3 sets of pull-ups |
Week 2 | 4 dead-hangs 2 boulders of 4 moves + 3 boulders of 6 moves, 3 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min) Send 1 try on each at your limit, using all kinds of movement 4 sets of pull-ups | Light run 25-30 min Planks Stretching | Same as Day 1, but focus on using all kinds of holds |
Week 3 | 5 dead-hangs 1 boulder of 6 moves, 3 tries (rest 2 min), send 1 2 boulders of 12 moves, 3 tries each (rest 3 / 5-6 min) Send at your limit or fall on the last moves; boulders going right and left 5 sets of pull-ups | Light run 30-35 min Planks Stretching | 5 dead-hangs 4 easy boulders of 6-8 moves, 3-4 tries each (rest 15 s / 3 min) Send every try: the first feel easy, the last are at your limit 5 sets of pull-ups |
Week 4 | 5 dead-hangs 15 hard moves, rest on a good hold, 15 more hard moves: 3-4 tries (rest 8-10 min) Send at your limit or fall on the last moves 5 sets of pull-ups | Light run 35-40 min Stretching | 5 dead-hangs One 30-move route you can just send or fall near the end of: 3-4 tries (rest 8-10 min) 5 sets of pull-ups |
Week 5 | Your Rockbusters camp | ||
Training plan
Week | Day 1 (climbing) | Active rest day | Day 2 (climbing) |
|---|---|---|---|
Week 1 | 3 dead-hangs 2 boulders of 4 moves + 2 boulders of 6 moves, 3 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min) Send 2 tries on each, using full crimp, half crimp and open hand 2 sets of TRX rows, 3 sets of pull-ups | Light run 30-35 min Planks Stretching | 3 dead-hangs 3 hard boulders of 4 moves + 2 of 6 moves, 3 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min) Send 1 try on each, with dynamic and static moves 2 sets of TRX rows, 3 sets of pull-ups |
Week 2 | 4 dead-hangs 2 boulders of 4 moves without feet, 3 tries each (rest 2-3 min) 2 boulders of 6 moves, 4 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min) Send 1-2 tries on each, using all kinds of moves 3 sets of TRX rows, 4 sets of pull-ups | Light run 30-35 min Planks 2 sets of toes to the bar Stretching | 4 dead-hangs 2 boulders of 4 moves + 2 boulders of 6 moves, 4 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min) Send 1 try on each and work on your weaknesses 3 sets of TRX rows, 4 sets of pull-ups |
Week 3 | 5 dead-hangs 1-2 boulders of 6-8 moves, 4 tries each (rest 2 min), send 1 2 boulders of 12 moves, 4 tries each (rest 3 / 5-6 min) Send at your limit or fall on the last moves; boulders going right and left 4 sets of TRX rows, 5 sets of pull-ups | Light run 30-35 min Planks 2 sets of toes to the bar Stretching | 5 dead-hangs 4 easy boulders of 6-8 moves, 4-5 tries each (rest 15 s / 3 min) Send every try: the first feel easy, the last are at your limit 4 sets of TRX rows, 5 sets of pull-ups |
Week 4 | 5 dead-hangs 15 hard moves, rest on a good hold, 15 more hard moves: 3-4 tries (rest 8-10 min) Send at your limit or fall on the last moves 4 sets of TRX rows, 5 sets of pull-ups | Light run 40 min Stretching | 5 dead-hangs One 30-move route you can just send or fall near the end of: 3-4 tries (rest 8-10 min) 4 sets of TRX rows, 5 sets of pull-ups |
Week 5 | Your Rockbusters camp | ||
Training plan
Week | Day 1 (climbing) | Active rest day | Day 2 (climbing) |
|---|---|---|---|
Week 1 | 3 sets of repeaters 2 boulders of 4 moves + 1 boulder of 6 moves, 3 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min) Send 2 tries on each, using full crimp, half crimp and open hand 2 sets of lock-offs, 3 sets of pull-ups | Light run 30-35 min Planks 2 sets of toes to the bar Stretching | 3 sets of repeaters 3 hard boulders of 4 moves + 2 of 6 moves, 3 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min) Send 1 try on each, with dynamic and static moves 2 sets of lock-offs, 3 sets of pull-ups |
Week 2 | 4 sets of repeaters 2 boulders of 4 moves without feet, 3 tries each (rest 2-3 min) 3 boulders of 6 moves, 4 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min) Send 1-2 tries on each, using all kinds of moves 3 sets of lock-offs, 4 sets of pull-ups | Light run 30-35 min Planks 2 sets of dragon flies Stretching | 4 sets of repeaters 2 boulders of 4 moves, 4 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min) 2 boulders of 6 moves without feet, 4 tries each (rest 2-3 / 5-6 min) Send 1 try on each and work on your weaknesses 3 sets of lock-offs, 4 sets of pull-ups |
Week 3 | 5 sets of repeaters 2 boulders of 6-8 moves, 4 tries each (rest 2 / 5 min), send 1 using all kinds of holds 2 boulders of 12 moves, 4 tries each (rest 3 / 5-6 min) Send at your limit or fall on the last moves; boulders going right and left 4 sets of lock-offs, 5 sets of pull-ups | Light run 40 min Planks of 1 min 30 s each 2 sets of dragon flies Stretching | 5 sets of repeaters 4-5 easy boulders of 6-8 moves, 4-5 tries each (rest 10-15 s / 3 min) Send every try: the first feel easy, the last are at your limit 4 sets of lock-offs, 5 sets of pull-ups |
Week 4 | 5 sets of repeaters 15 hard moves, rest on a good hold, 15 more hard moves: 3-4 tries (rest 8-10 min) Send at your limit or fall on the last moves 4 sets of lock-offs, 5 sets of pull-ups | Light run 40 min Stretching | 5 sets of repeaters One 30-move route you can just send or fall near the end of: 3-4 tries (rest 8-10 min) 4 sets of lock-offs, 5 sets of pull-ups |
Week 5 | Your Rockbusters camp | ||
Quick answers
Start four weeks before you leave. In this plan, week 5 is the trip itself, so you arrive conditioned but rested. A shorter block still helps, as long as you do not cram extra load into the last few days.
A fingerboard is the easiest way to do controlled dead-hangs at home, but any training board edge at your gym works. Use a 16-18 mm edge at Level 1, and the smallest edge you can hold for 10 seconds at Levels 2 and 3.
If the dead-hangs or pull-ups of your level feel easy, move just that exercise up a level. If they are too hard, take weight off with a pulley, a resistance band or your feet on a chair. Always finish a hang with a few seconds left in the tank.
Yes. It prepares you for any climbing trip. On our camps, coaches build on this base with technique, tactics and mental coaching on real rock.
Trips
Pick a trip for week 5.
Albarracin
Tackle Albarracin's sandstone roofs, slabs, and highballs with Rockbusters coaching, pads, and a strong bouldering crew.
Sella
Move from indoor climbing to real rock with basics, belaying, movement, safety skills, and a full Rockbusters camp week.
Chulilla
Work with Klemen Becan on technique, mindset, and performance habits for climbing better, harder, and with more control.
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