jany_palice500x500.jpg

Birthdate: 18.02.1978

Residence: Usti nad Labem, Czech Republic

Years Climbing: 25

Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/jany.novotny/

Jany is our founder and head coach. He is also a coach and guide for:

Sport Climbing Performance and Mental Coaching, Deep Water Solo Course, Bouldering Trips & Courses, Sport Climbing Road Trips, Multipitch Climbing Course

 

Specialization: 

  • Basic climbing techniques - proper footwork, correct balance, proper use of handholds, ...
  • Advance climbing techniques - sidestep, drop knee, flagging, heel/toe hooks, no hand rests, ...
  • Mental coaching - reaching and overcoming individual limits
  • Fear management
  • Climbing safety - belay/lead belay, anchor set up, lead climbing, spotting, ...
  • Onsight, flash & redpoint approach to climbing
  • Outdoor climbing risks and their understandings
  • Deepwater solo safety specifics, techniques, and tricks

 

Sports achievements: 

  • Botanic 8b+, Rodellar, Spain
  • Mal de Amores 8a+, Rodellar, Spain
  • Montserrat 8a+, Rodellar, Spain
  • Tirali valent 8a+, Sella, Spain
  • La forqueta del diablo (Romocop) 8a+, Sella, Spain
  • Les Ailes du Desir L1-L2 8a, Gorges du Tarn, France
  • Teuchipa 7c, Ceuse, France

 

About Jany:

Although I have a master's degree in Social Politics and Social Work I have been always attracted to the mountains and rocks and the only way how to spend more time in this environment doing what I love was to turn my passion into a job. This is the base idea and motivation for setting up Rockbusters and Snowbusters. Of course, sharing all my experiences and helping people to climb better, harder and more and actually being part of their progress stands right next to it.

I have been guiding and coaching climbing and skiing since I was 20 years old more than 20 years. There have been many people who went through my hands and I believe all of them become better skiers or climbers, some both. Of course, not all of them love my style but with most of them, we have become friends.

If you let me, expect nothing less than to be pushed to your personal physical and mental limits as it is my personal goal to find them and help you to destroy them. The way may be a bit painful and frustrating but with my technical and mental coaching skills, no goal is hanging too high! 

 

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