Rock Climbing Siurana

Siurana - The Crown Jewel of Catalonian Climbing

 

Overview

Perched atop a dramatic limestone cliff in the heart of Catalonia, Spain, Siurana is a magical destination that combines world-class rock climbing with breathtaking natural beauty. This picturesque medieval village sits surrounded by stunning orange, yellow, and gray limestone walls, offering one of the most aesthetic climbing experiences in Europe.

The village itself is a charming collection of stone buildings with narrow cobblestone streets and twisting passageways, all positioned high above rolling vineyards and olive orchards. When you’re not climbing, the romantic atmosphere and spectacular views across the countryside make Siurana an unforgettable destination.

 

Climbing History

Siurana boasts a rich climbing history dating back to the 1980s. While European climbers have enjoyed these crags since then, many international climbers were first introduced to Siurana through Eric Pearlman’s classic “Masters of Stone IV” climbing film, which featured Carlos Brasco on routes like “Bistec de Biceps” and “La Cara Que No Miente” at L’Olla sector, as well as local climbing legend Toni Arbones on the classic “Mr. Cheki” (8b+/5.14a).

The area was primarily developed in the 1990s and maintains its old-school character. Brasco was one of Spain’s top climbers in the early 90s, establishing the Campi classic “L’Odi Social” in 1992 at 8c (later upgraded to 8c+ after a hold broke).

Siurana’s most famous route is “La Rambla,” originally established in 1994 by Alex Huber and graded 8c+ (5.14c). In 2003, Spanish climber Ramon Julian added a 20-foot extension to create “La Rambla Extension” at the impressive grade of 9a+ (5.15a), which has been confirmed by repeats from elite climbers like Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Patxi Usobiaga. In 2008, Chris Sharma completed a 9a direct start to further cement Siurana’s reputation for cutting-edge routes.

Today, Siurana is regarded as the premier sport climbing venue in Catalunya and among the top destination crags in the world.

 

Rock & Climbing Style

Siurana is renowned for its exceptional limestone, featuring:

  • Technical, thin routes with excellent incut pockets and sharp edges
  • Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging walls
  • Technical, precise climbing similar to Smith Rock
  • Mainly crimps and pockets on gentle overhangs

Primarily south-facing walls with stunning orange, blue, yellow, and black streaked cliffs

With over 30 distinct crags and more than 1,000 routes spread around the vicinity, there’s an impressive variety from short, powerful routes on 45-degree overhangs to 35-meter slabs. While you’ll find a few famous tufa routes at Sector L’Olla, these are uncommon – if you’re looking for tufa climbing, nearby areas like Rodellar, Margalef, or Montgrony would be better choices.

A distinctive characteristic of Siurana is its stern grading system. Unlike some destinations with “holiday grades,” Siurana is known for its challenging, honest grades. Routes rarely feel easy for their grade, and if a route gains a reputation as an easy tick, you might find it downgraded in the next guidebook edition. This makes on-sights more satisfying but can be humbling for first-time visitors.

 

When To Visit

Due to its predominantly south-facing aspect and proximity to the Mediterranean (only about 20 miles from the sea), Siurana is primarily a winter destination. Most climbers visit between November and March.

The region enjoys warm weather year-round, with climbing in full sun becoming unbearably hot even in December. The sharp nature of the limestone further suggests a winter visit, as the rock can become painfully hot in the summer months.

For those visiting outside winter, shade can be found in several sectors if you know where to look, particularly in areas like L’aparador, Can Toni Gros, and other north-facing walls that don’t receive sun until late afternoon.

 

Accommodation & Facilities

For climbers visiting Siurana, several accommodation options are available:

  • Camping Siurana: Created by local climbing legend Toni Arbones, located about 1km from the village. Offers campsites, bungalows, and small rooms. Features a bar/restaurant with good food at reasonable prices, plus showers.
  • Cornudella de Montsant: The nearby town offers rooms that generally include breakfast for around €25 per person per day.
  • Free Camping: Tolerated along the road to Siurana. Many climbers bivy at the Melafots cliff under the low roof at the left end of the crag. Car camping at the castle parking lot is generally acceptable.
  • Local Apartments: Various rental options are available in both Siurana village and Cornudella for longer stays.

 

Essential Sectors

With over 60 climbing sectors and more than 1,000 routes, Siurana offers endless possibilities. Some highlights include:

  • L’Olla: Home to famous routes featured in “Masters of Stone IV” and some of the area’s rare tufa formations.
  • El Falco (Arboli): Located just a 20-minute drive from Siurana, it offers some of the best moderate routes in the region on perfectly featured orange stone.
  • L’aparador: A shady sector with excellent technical climbing that doesn’t receive sun until around 4pm.
  • Can Toni Gros: Another high-quality shaded area with classic lines.
  • Campi: Home to historic hard routes, including L’Odi Social (8c+).
  • El Pati: Where you’ll find La Rambla, one of the world’s most famous 9a+ routes.

 

Tips For First-Time Visitors

  • Grades: Come prepared for stern grading – consider climbing a grade or two below your usual limit when selecting routes.
  • Gear: Bring 12-15 quickdraws for most routes, with some longer routes requiring up to 18. A 70m rope is recommended.
  • Style Adaptation: The technical, crimpy style rewards precision and balance rather than power. Expect to develop better technical skills during your stay.
  • Weather: Be prepared for occasional rain, even during the climbing season. The good news is that the rock dries quickly, often within hours.
  • Rest Days: The beautiful village, the surrounding countryside, and nearby towns like Tarragona offer excellent rest-day activities.
  • Supplies: Stock up on groceries in Cornudella de Montsant, which has several small supermarkets and bakeries.

 

Join Our Rockbusters Trip to Siurana

Experience the magic of Siurana with Rockbusters! Our guided trips offer:

  • Expert local knowledge of the best sectors for your climbing level
  • Technical coaching tailored to Siurana’s distinctive style
  • Transportation from Barcelona
  • Accommodation arrangements
  • A friendly, supportive climbing community

 

Whether you’re looking to push your limits on world-class limestone or simply enjoy the stunning scenery and rich climbing culture of Catalonia, our Siurana trips provide the perfect balance of challenge, achievement, and relaxation.

 

See more info:

https://www.mountainproject.com/SIURANA

http://www.planetmountain.com/SIURANA

https://www.thecrag.com/SIURANA

https://www.ukclimbing.com/SIURANA

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