Official Evolv TEST&DEMO center
Tucked away in northern Spain, the Picos de Europa mountain range offers some of Europe's most spectacular yet underappreciated climbing opportunities. This wild limestone landscape combines dramatic peaks, deep canyons, and picturesque villages to create a climber's paradise that rivals more famous European destinations.
The Picos de Europa is characterized by its massive limestone formations, creating an almost alpine environment with peaks reaching nearly 2,600 meters. The region's geological makeup provides perfect conditions for sport climbing, with solid rock faces and a variety of technical challenges suited to different climbing styles and experience levels.www.mountainproject.com
At the southern end of the Picos region lies Valdehuesa, a premier sport climbing area boasting over 200 routes on an almost uninterrupted wall of limestone extending into the distance. What makes this area particularly special is not just the quality of routes but often the solitude - climbers frequently report having entire sections to themselves, interrupted only by wandering cattle and sheep that appear in the afternoons.
The routes at Valdehuesa range from accessible 6a climbs to challenging 8c routes on the overhanging sectors. The crag is organized into several sectors, with the overhanging area featuring primarily 7b to 8c routes, while adjacent sectors offer more moderate climbing in the 6a to 7a range - perfect for climbers looking to progress through different difficulty levels.
No article about climbing in the Picos would be complete without mentioning Naranjo de Bulnes (also known as Pico Urriellu), Spain's most famous mountain peak. Standing at 2,519 meters (8,263 ft), this limestone spire is the region's iconic climbing destination.
While not strictly sport climbing, the peak offers some of Spain's most celebrated routes, including:
The West Face is particularly renowned for its steeper-than-average climbing and high-quality routes, making it the main attraction for experienced climbers seeking sustained technical challenges.
While Naranjo draws the spotlight, the Picos region offers numerous other climbing opportunities:
Many climbers compare the experience to the Dolomites, with routes ranging from moderate (UK S 4a to VS 4c) to much more challenging grades. The region offers everything from long mountain routes to shorter valley crags with harder climbs.
Finding comprehensive English guidebooks can be challenging. Many climbers rely on:
The region offers various accommodation options, from hotels in towns like Las Arenas de Cabrales to free overnight parking for vehicles. Most climbing areas require some hiking to access, with approaches ranging from 10 minutes to several hours depending on the location.
Las Arenas de Cabrales serve as an excellent base for accessing many of the climbing areas. For those planning to climb at Valdehuesa, the town of Boñar is conveniently located nearby.
Summer climbing in the region can be challenging due to the heat, especially on south-facing walls. Many climbers adopt a pattern of early morning climbing, afternoon siestas, and evening sessions. Spring and fall generally offer more comfortable climbing conditions.
What sets climbing in the Picos de Europa apart is not just the quality of the routes but the entire experience. Picture yourself climbing on pristine limestone with spectacular mountain vistas, sharing the landscape with wandering herds of cattle and sheep, and ending your day in a charming Spanish village with local wine and cuisine.
For climbers seeking an alternative to more crowded European destinations, the Picos de Europa offers a perfect combination of excellent climbing, stunning scenery, and authentic cultural experiences in one of Spain's most beautiful natural settings.
