Montgrony is one of the oldest Spanish sport climbing areas. Situated in the central Pyrenees, close to a little village of Gombren, it is a beautiful spot well worth visiting. Although Montgrony is not that well known outside of Spain, it offers a good amount of high quality climbing.
The routes in Montgrony may seem less rewarding than in some bigger other areas, such as Rodellar or Terradets. Similar to those two, Montgrony is mostly climbing on tufas, but the routes are shorter, more bouldery and more cruxy. Depending on your preferred style, it might make them much harder or much easier to climb. Most sport climbers used to typical Spanish endurance lines see them as less ‘comfortable’ to climb. They require a lot of full-body power endurance as there are plenty of big, athletic moves between good holds.
The rock is still of great quality and if you love tufas and are a powerful climber, Montgrony is the place for you. You will also manage to avoid the crowds flocking to more popular areas, and the scenery is breathtaking.
Montgrony offers about 300 routes, most of which are sevens and eights.
The best time to climb in Montgrony is from autumn to spring as most of the cliffs are south facing. Despite its altitude, Montgrony can get quite hot even in winter, but as soon as the sun goes down you need your down jackets.
Montgrony is located an hour’s drive from Girona, close to Gombren, so the ideal way to get here is flying to Girona, which is well served by low-cost airlines. There is a little refuge close to the crags but it is still a short drive away, so hiring a car is a must.
If you have a van or a camper, it is very comfortable to park it at a small car park right next to the crags.