Rock Climbing Malta

Rock Climbing in Malta: A Mediterranean Paradise for Climbers

Malta and its sister island, Gozo, nestled in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea between Sicily and North Africa, offer a rock climbing experience that combines breathtaking limestone sea cliffs, rich history, and year-round climbing conditions. What was once a relatively unknown climbing destination has evolved into a rock climber's paradise with over 600 routes ranging from beginner-friendly climbs to challenging ascents for the most experienced climbers.

A Growing Climbing Destination

Sport climbing has grown impressively in Malta over the last decade. Local climbers have worked diligently to bolt hundreds of routes, establishing Malta as a serious destination for sport climbers. The islands now boast approximately 600 routes ranging from grade 3 to high 8s, with rumors of grade 9 routes hiding in tufa-covered caves and imposing sea cliffs.

Unlike other Mediterranean limestone climbing destinations, Malta hasn't experienced a great influx of climbers, meaning the rock faces remain largely unpolished and in excellent condition. This pristine quality, combined with the diversity of climbs available, makes Malta particularly attractive to climbers seeking a less crowded experience.

When to Go

The optimum climbing conditions in Malta are from early October through December. January and February constitute the rainy season, though good breaks in weather are frequent. Climbing can be enjoyable year-round, but during summer, climbing is limited to shady crags that receive sea winds.

For those visiting in warmer months, "Smoothie's cave" has become a popular summer spot, offering ample shade and a nice breeze from the sea. Some climbers also take advantage of deep water soloing opportunities during the warmer months.

Types of Climbing

Malta's climbing scene is diverse, offering something for every type of climber:

• Sport Climbing: Over 500 bolted routes with beginner-friendly bolting, often with anchor points no more than two meters apart.
• Traditional Climbing: A rich history of routes established by British climbers, particularly on the sea cliffs.
• Multi-Pitch Routes: Numerous options for longer climbs, many of which are bolted and offer an adventurous journey.
• Deep Water Soloing: The clear Mediterranean waters make Malta perfect for rope-free climbing above the sea.
• Limited Bouldering: While not as prominent, there are spots, especially on Gozo, for short but challenging bouldering problems.

Popular Climbing Spots

On Malta

• Għar Lapsi: Sport climbing sectors including Twin Caves, Learning to Fly Cave, and Terry's Cave, with sea views and unique experiences.
• Wied Babu: A valley offering mixed sport and trad routes like Blue Wall and Red Wall for various skill levels.
• Mosta Valley (Wied il-Għasel): A green area hidden away in an urban setting with routes at all angles for climbers of all levels.
• Il-Latnija (Mellieha Cave): A sinkhole that will test your forearms to the limit, where locals head when it rains.

On Gozo

• Mgarr ix-Xini: An all-day crag with a wide range of routes in a beautiful canyon setting. It's perfect for chasing shade in warmer months or basking in the sun during winter.
• Wied Il-Mielah: Nearly 40 routes ranging from grade 3+ to hard 8s, with several routes on a natural rock arch. Climbing experience is essential as you need to abseil down to the routes.
• The Underworld: For those seeking a committing sea cliff experience with routes that will test your stamina.

Logistics

Getting There and Around

Cheap flights to Malta are available from most major UK airports to Gudja, just outside Valetta. Once landed, a car or scooter is essential to get around, as climbing areas tend to be underserved by public transport.

Accommodation

Malta offers accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets. Options include hostels, hotels, and rental properties like farmhouses or small villas, particularly popular on Gozo. Wild camping is technically against the law, but discreet campers may go unnoticed.

Guidebooks and Resources

"Sport Climbing in Malta & Gozo" (2013) lists over 550 climbing routes in most locations. For the latest developments, connect with the Malta Climbing Association and the Malta Climbing Club, or find their group on Facebook, as new routes are constantly being added and new crags are being discovered.

Ethical Climbing

Ethical climbing practices are strongly encouraged in Malta to preserve the natural beauty and integrity of the rock formations. This includes minimizing chalk use, leaving no trace by packing out all trash, and respecting wildlife that calls the cliffs home.

Rest Day Activities

Being islands surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea, Malta and Gozo offer plenty of water-based activities for rest days, including diving, snorkeling, and swimming. Cultural enthusiasts can explore museums, galleries, and shopping in the capital cities of Valetta and Victoria, or experience local village 'festas' and street parades.

Conclusion

With its diverse climbing opportunities, stunning sea cliffs, warm weather, and rich cultural heritage, Malta offers a unique climbing experience that combines adventure, history, and the beauty of the Mediterranean. Whether you're a beginner looking to build confidence or an experienced climber seeking new challenges, Malta's limestone crags and sea cliffs provide an unforgettable climbing destination that remains relatively undiscovered compared to other Mediterranean climbing hotspots.