Located in Germany, Frankenjura is the perfect sport climbing destination for your summer holidays. Whether you want to go really hard, or just play around on the pocketed limestone, you will not leave disappointed.
There are almost 8000 bolted climbs spread across a thousand small crags in and around the area. The walls are hidden in picturesque and peaceful forests which provide respite from the summer sun. Should you get too hot, there are loads of little streams to jump in. To make it even more perfect, Frankenjura offers climbs of all grades, from the very easiest to the very hardest.
The history of Frankenjura climbing started with now legendary climbers such as Wolfgang Gulich and Kurt Albert. They set up the hardest lines of their times and pushed the limits of what was considered possible. Frankenjura is home to the world-famous sport climbing classics such as Sandstone and Action Direct!
Climbing in Frankenjura is hard and challenging. There are many seriously bouldery and cruxy routes, most of which do not exceed 25 meters. A lot of explosive power is required but Frankenjura is also a great place to acquire that kind of skill. There are a few lines reaching almost 40 meters but they are exceptions.
The typical Frankenjura climb is full of one or two-finger pockets, combined with small huecos and crimps. It takes a lot of finger strength and good power endurance. If you prefer crimps and ledges, sectors such as Student will cater to your tastes.
The major crags are located around Pottenstein, Gosweinstein, Tuchersweld and Weischenfeld.
There are many good campsites in the area and most of the villages have B& B’s and little supermarkets. In summertime campsites are great option but springs and autumns tend to get quite rainy.
As the whole area is quite big, you will appreciate renting a car.
Although Frankenjura has become a popular summer climbing venue, especially for climbers from Southern Europe, the ideal time to climb here is from early spring to late autumn. The weather varies a lot year on year, and it is difficult to predict how the season may go. Luckily, dry rock can be found in Frankenjura in almost any weather.