Rock Climbing Cavallers

Cavallers: Spain's Hidden Granite Paradise

Nestled in the stunning Pyrenean valley of La Vall de Boí, Cavallers represents one of Spain's most exciting yet underappreciated climbing destinations. Located inside the National Park of Aigüestortes just before the Cavallers dam, this area offers an extraordinary climbing experience surrounded by pristine mountain landscapes.

The Climbing Experience

Cavallers boasts nearly 1,000 routes on distinctively sharp and rounded granite that will test your finger strength and technique. The rock formations create a physically demanding climbing style characterized by challenging overhangs, technical mantles, and intricate slabs. Whether you're a beginner looking for accessible routes or an advanced climber seeking your next project, Cavallers delivers with its diverse range of difficulties.

The area primarily features bouldering (over 1,000 problems) with some sport routes (around 16 documented). The climbing sectors are scattered on both sides of the valley road leading to the Cavallers dam, making access relatively straightforward once you're in the area.

Bouldering Paradise

Cavallers is primarily renowned for its exceptional bouldering, with over 1,000 documented problems spread across multiple sectors. The pristine granite offers a distinctive climbing experience with a mix of sharp edges, rounded slopers, and technical features that demand precision and strength.

Bouldering Sectors

The bouldering areas are distributed throughout the valley, with popular sectors including:

• El Prat - Home to classics like "Lo ruc" (5A) and numerous other problems across the grade range
• El Bosc - A forested area with problems on granite boulders scattered throughout
• La Llosa - Features distinctive slab problems requiring delicate footwork
• Paritori - Known for more technical problems requiring finger strength
• Sota la Presa - Located just below the dam, with easily accessible problems

Boulder Problem Styles

The granite in Cavallers creates diverse problem types, including:

• Technical mantles require body tension and precise hand placements
• Powerful overhangs with crimpy holds demanding finger strength
• Delicate slabs with micro-features requiring impeccable balance
• Rounded slopers testing skin friction and body positioning
• Occasional crack problems that combine techniques from both bouldering and traditional climbing

Grade Range and Classics

Cavallers offers problems from beginner-friendly 3s (V0) to challenging 8s (V12+). Some standout classic boulder problems include:

• Boca seca man 7B+
• Harri-jasotze 7B
• Esperó del prat 7A+
• La Carnisseria 7A+
• X-Men 7A+
• La formiga atòmica 7A
• Bosc Màgic 7A
• Fissurata 6B+
• Tau tau 6A+
• Lo ruc 5A (perfect for beginners)

Bouldering Conditions

The granite in Cavallers responds differently depending on weather conditions:

• During warmer temperatures, the rounded slopers can feel glassy and difficult to hold
• In cooler conditions, friction improves dramatically, making previously impossible problems feel manageable
• After rain, many sectors dry relatively quickly due to good sun exposure, with El Prat being noted for particularly fast drying

Must-Try Classic Lines

For those seeking the area's standout problems, don't miss these local classics:

• Boca seca man 7B+
• Harri-jasotze 7B
• Esperó del prat 7A+
• La Carnisseria 7A+
• X-Men 7A+
• La formiga atòmica 7A
• Bosc Màgic 7A
• Fissurata 6B+
• Tau tau 6A+

For those interested in roped climbing, the Travessani area above Estany Negre offers nearly 200 mostly bolted routes ranging from 10 to 30 meters in height.

When To Visit

Cavallers offers year-round climbing opportunities, with each season providing a unique experience:

• Spring & Autumn: The ideal seasons with perfect friction and moderate temperatures. While occasional afternoon showers occur, most sectors, such as El Prat, dry quickly.
• Summer: Surprisingly, this is the most popular time to visit asthe  Cavallers remains cooler than other climbing areas in Catalunya. Head to shadier sectors like Toirigo to escape the heat.
• Winter: Generally covered in snow and very cold, though determined climbers might find dry rock on sunny days.

Getting There

From Barcelona, expect a 300km journey taking approximately 3.5 hours. From Lleida, it's a more manageable 145km (2-hour) drive. Take the L-500 road from El Pont de Suert toward Barruera, continuing through the Vall de Boí villages until you reach Caldes de Boí with its spa resort. Here you'll encounter a barrier marking the entrance to the National Park where vehicle restrictions apply (no vehicles wider than 2m, no overnight stays).

From the barrier, continue 4.5km to the Cavallers dam. The closest sector, Toirigo, is found just after crossing the bridge on the left. Other sectors are distributed along both sides of the valley with designated parking areas.

Important Considerations

As Cavallers lies within a National Park, respectful behavior is essential:

• Park only in designated areas
• Follow established paths
• Leave no trace (pack out all trash)
• Brush away tick marks and excess chalk
• Keep dogs leashed
• No fires
• No hold chipping or modification

Remember that rangers patrol the area regularly and will issue fines for violations.

Cavallers represents Spanish climbing at its finest—challenging granite problems in a breathtaking mountain setting with routes for every ability level. Its relatively undiscovered status means you'll often have sectors to yourself, especially outside peak summer periods.