Ticino, Switzerland: Granite Perfection

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Location & Access

Ticino is the southernmost canton of Switzerland, bordering Italy. The main bouldering areas are located in the valleys north of Bellinzona. From Zurich, it’s approximately a 2.5-hour drive, while Milan is just 1.5 hours away. A rental car is highly recommended for accessing the various bouldering sectors.

The three primary bouldering areas are:

• Cresciano: Located along the A2 highway
• Chironico: In the Valle Leventina, 30 minutes north of Bellinzona
• Brione: In the Valle Verzasca, 30 minutes northwest of Locarno

 

Best Season

Ticino offers excellent climbing conditions for much of the year:

• Winter (December-February): Prime season with perfect friction on sunny days
• Spring (March-May): Good conditions, especially in shadier sectors
• Autumn (September-November): Excellent conditions with stable weather
• Summer (June-August): Generally too hot except at higher elevations

 

Climbing Style & Difficulty

With over 5,000 established problems across the region, Ticino offers an incredible variety of high-quality granite. The climbing style varies between areas but generally features technical crimping, slopers, and occasional dynos. The granite provides excellent friction in good conditions.

 

Grade distribution:

Beginner (up to 6A): 20%
Intermediate (6A±7A): 35%
Advanced (7A±8A): 35%
Elite (8A+ and above): 10%

 

Key Areas

• Cresciano: Technical climbing on smooth river-washed granite
  • Notable sectors: Ossi di Seppia, Boscone, Atlantide
• Chironico: The largest area with the greatest variety
  • Notable sectors: Dreamtime, Nicobloc, Cubo
• Brione: Picturesque setting with high-quality problems
  • Notable sectors: Nivo Bloc, Brione Right, Brione Left

 

Accommodation

• Camping:
  • Camping Gottardo Sud (near Cresciano)
  • Camping Piccolo Paradiso (near Chironico)
  • Camping Verzasca (near Brione)
• Climber Hostels: Options in Bellinzona and Biasca
• Apartments/Chalets: Rental options throughout the valleys
• Hotels: Available in Bellinzona, Biasca, and Locarno

 

Essential Gear

• Multiple crash pads (landings can be uneven and rocky)
• Shoes with good edging capabilities
• Full range of clothing (temperatures can vary significantly)
• Guidebook: “Ticino Boulder” by Stefano Alippi

 

Local Ethics

• Respect private property and parking restrictions
• Stay on established trails
• No climbing on wet rock
• Pack out all trash

 

Rest Day Activities

• Swimming in the Verzasca River (summer)
• Visit the castles of Bellinzona (UNESCO World Heritage)
• Day trip to Lake Maggiore or Lake Lugano
• Hiking in the surrounding mountains
• Enjoy Swiss-Italian cuisine in local restaurants