Magic Wood, Switzerland: Alpine Bouldering Gem

Location & Access

Magic Wood is located in the Avers Valley in the Swiss canton of Graubünden. The nearest town is Andeer. From Zurich, it’s approximately a 2.5-hour drive. Public transportation is possible but complicated, requiring train to Chur, then bus connections to Andeer, followed by a local bus or taxi to the bouldering area.

The bouldering area is situated along the Avers River at approximately 1,600m elevation. A short 5-10 minute walk from the parking area/campsite leads to the main sectors.

Best Season

The prime climbing seasons are late spring (May-June) and autumn (September-October). Summer (July-August) can be good during dry periods but may experience afternoon thunderstorms. Winter is generally too cold and snowy for climbing.

Climbing Style & Difficulty

Magic Wood features approximately 1,000 established problems on high-quality granite. The style is predominantly powerful and technical, with many problems featuring crimps, slopers, and technical sequences. The area is particularly renowned for its concentration of challenging problems in the 7A-8B+ range, although there are options available for all levels.
 

Grade distribution:

• Beginner (up to 6A): 25%
• Intermediate (6A±7A): 35%
• Advanced (7A±8A): 30%
• Elite (8A+ and above): 10%

Key Areas

Riverside: The original and most accessible sector with classics like “The Never Ending Story” (8B+)
Darkness: Home to many hard testpieces, including “New Base Line” (8B+)
Mutant: Technical climbing on smaller boulders
The Forest: Scattered problems throughout the wooded area above the river

Accommodation

Camping: Magic Wood Camping, located at the entrance to the bouldering area (€10-15/night)
Apartments/Rooms: Available in nearby Andeer or Ausserferrera
Hotels: Several options in Andeer and Thusis (20-minute drive)

Essential Gear

• Multiple crash pads (landings can be uneven and rocky)
• Shoes with good edging capabilities
• Warm layers (even summer evenings can be cool at this elevation)
• Rain gear (weather can change quickly in the mountains)
• Guidebook: “Magic Wood Boulder” by Bernd Zangerl

Local Ethics

• Pack out all trash
• Use established trails to minimize erosion
• No climbing on wet rock to prevent damage
• Respect closures for environmental reasons

Rest Day Activities

• Swimming in the Avers River (very cold!)
• Hiking in the surrounding mountains
• Visit the thermal baths in Andeer
• Sport climbing in nearby Chiavenna (Italy)