Get the Right Climbing Shoes
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How to Choose Climbing Shoes That Fit Like a Glove
Choosing the right climbing shoes is arguably the most crucial decision when selecting new climbing gear. Unlike harnesses, ropes, or quickdraws, climbing shoes have the most significant impact on your climbing performance. A good fit ensures confidence on footholds and reduces reliance on arm strength, allowing you to climb more efficiently and with less effort.
Here’s a guide to help you focus on the most important aspects when making your selection:
Understanding Climbing Shoe Anatomy and Key Features
Every climbing shoe has several critical parts and characteristics that you should understand:
- Last and Shape: This is the most important "part"—the actual shape of the climbing shoe, or "last." Lasts vary in asymmetry and profile:
- Asymmetry: Determines how much the shoe curves from heel to toe. More curved shoes are more asymmetrical, enhancing power transfer to the toe for small footholds and technical moves. These are generally less comfortable and better suited for experienced climbers.
- Profile: Refers to the downward curvature of the shoe when viewed from the side. A flatter profile means zero curvature (the sole lies flat), while a maximum profile indicates a significant curve (the sole barely touches the ground). Highly curved and asymmetrical shoes are effective for transferring power to the big toe, ideal for tiny holds and difficult technical sequences. They are less comfortable and suited for advanced climbers. Less asymmetrical and flatter (straight) shoes are more comfortable and ideal for beginners, casual climbers, children on larger holds, and slab climbing, where maximum sole contact is needed for friction.
- Rubber/Sole: The sole, or "rubber," is crucial. The constant development of rubber compounds has significantly pushed the boundaries of sport climbing. Softer, thinner rubber offers greater grip but has a shorter lifespan. Conversely, harder, thicker rubber is less sensitive but more durable.
- Upper Material: Climbing shoe uppers are typically made from natural leather or synthetic microfiber. Each has pros and cons:
- Leather: Breathable and comfortable for bare feet, but stretches over time (sometimes excessively) and may not retain its shape as well.
- Synthetic: Holds its shape better, even when sweaty, and stretches less (sometimes not at all). However, it is less breathable, resulting in increased foot perspiration.
- Midsole: This "invisible layer" between the rubber and the upper determines the shoe's stiffness. Softer midsoles create softer shoes, which are better for slab climbing (where more shoe surface is used for friction) and soft rock (like sandstone), where sensitivity is key. Soft, highly curved shoes are also excellent for bouldering and steep overhangs, where toe-hooking is common. Stiffer midsoles are preferred for small footholds and hard rock types like granite or limestone.
- Toe: The toe area of climbing shoes is often reinforced with rubber. A well-rubberized toe is especially useful for bouldering and overhanging routes, where "toe-hooking" is frequently used. Without sufficient toe rubber in such terrain, your foot might slip more, and the shoe will wear out faster.
General Tips for Choosing and Trying On Climbing Shoes
- Fit is paramount: Climbing shoes should fit snugly without being painful. They will stretch slightly, especially leather shoes.
- Try them on at the end of the day: Your feet are typically slightly larger and more swollen at the end of the day, which will give you a more accurate fit.
- Consider your climbing style: Beginners and those focusing on comfort might prefer a flatter, less aggressive shoe. Advanced climbers tackling harder routes will benefit from more aggressive, asymmetrical, and downturned shoes for precision and power.
- Don't wear socks (usually): Most climbers wear climbing shoes without socks to maximize sensitivity and fit.
- Walk around in them (if possible): If the store allows, try walking or standing on small ledges to get a feel for how they perform.
Remember, the best climbing shoe is one that feels right for you and suits your climbing needs. Take your time, try on several pairs, and focus on the fit!
