Fontainebleau, France: The Birthplace of Bouldering
FEATURED ARTICLE
Location & Access
Located approximately 50km south of Paris, Fontainebleau is easily accessible by car or public transportation. From Paris, take the Transilien R train to either Fontainebleau-Avon or Bois-le-Roi stations (40-60 minutes). From there, you’ll need a rental car, taxi, or bicycle to reach the various bouldering areas. Most sectors are accessible via short walks from parking areas.
Best Season
The prime seasons for climbing in Font are spring (April-June) and autumn (September-November) when temperatures are moderate and friction is optimal. Summer can be hot and humid, while winter offers excellent conditions on sunny days, but can be too cold and damp during wet periods.
Climbing Style & Difficulty
Fontainebleau offers over 20,000 problems across all grades, with a particularly strong selection in the moderate range (Font 4-6). The climbing style emphasizes technical footwork, balance, and subtle body positioning rather than pure strength. Expect slabs, technical face climbing, and the infamous “Font mantle” top-outs.
The color-coded circuit system makes Font particularly beginner-friendly:
- White/Yellow: Very easy (Font 2-3)
- Orange: Easy (Font 3-4)
- Blue: Moderate (Font 4-5)
- Red: Difficult (Font 5-6)
- Black: Very difficult (Font 6-7+)
Key Areas
- Bas Cuvier: The historic heart of Font bouldering, home to classics like “Marie Rose” (6A)
- Cuvier Rempart: Powerful overhangs and technical face climbing
- Trois Pignons: Extensive area with numerous sectors, including Cul de Chien and 95.2
- Apremont: Beautiful setting with diverse climbing styles
- Franchard: Multiple sectors with excellent circuits for all levels
Accommodation
- Camping: Camping de la Musardière in Milly-la-Forêt is popular among climbers
- Gîtes: Numerous climber-friendly guesthouses in villages throughout the forest
- Hotels: Options available in Fontainebleau town and the surrounding villages
- Apartments: Short-term rentals in Fontainebleau, Milly-la-Forêt, and other nearby towns
Essential Gear
- Multiple crash pads (the forest floor can be uneven)
- Climbing shoes with good edging capabilities
- Liquid chalk (humidity can be an issue)
- Brushes for cleaning holds
- Guidebook: “Fontainebleau Climbs” by Montchaussé/Godoffe or “7+8” for harder problems
Local Ethics
- Strict no-chipping, no-cleaning policy (no wire brushes)
- No tick marks or excessive chalk
- Stay on established paths to minimize erosion
- Respect closure areas for environmental protection
Rest Day Activities
- Visit the magnificent Château de Fontainebleau
- Explore the charming town of Barbizon
- Hiking through the forest’s marked trails
- Day trip to Paris
